Aquatic Animal Emergency

Swift action is vital in aquatic animal emergencies. Whether it’s injury or illness, immediate care boosts recovery chances and prevents complications.

  • Change in color
  • Swimming abnormally
  • Non-responsive
  • Not interested in food
  • Abnormal positioning in tank/on bottom/top, etc.
  • Change in color or frequency of stool
  • Gulping air (piping) in most species (but not bettas or gourami)
  • Rubbing excessively (flashing) on tank surfaces

This is not an exhaustive list, and some emergencies may not be described. Please call immediately if you think your pet has an emergency.

What to Do in an Aquatic Animal Emergency at Home

Any change from normal in a fish can be a very bad sign. Fish are masters of hiding their signs of illness, a term known as “masking,” in order to prevent becoming prey. Therefore, any change in behavior, swim patterns, color, or appetite could be a medical emergency. Here are some tips on what you can do should you find yourself in a fish emergency:

  1. Stop feeding your fish or aquatic amphibian until the cause of its illness is determined. Adding excess food to the tank only increases waste products and may make things worse.
  2. Check the environmental parameters! The majority of emergencies are related to the tank or pond environment.
    1. Test your water quality using an at-home test kit. Pay close attention to Ammonia, Nitrite, and pH, as these are the most common offenders.
    2. Do a water change of 20-30%. This will help to dilute poor water quality conditions. We recommend draining the water to the appropriate level and then refilling it with the appropriate amount of conditioned, tested water with proper quality parameters. See our video on water change.
    3. Improve aeration by adding or replacing air stones.
    4. Reduce your fish’s stress by adding non-iodized salt (aquarium salt, rock, or sea salt) to freshwater tanks. Most freshwater fish prefer a salinity of 0.3% or 3 grams per liter (12 g per gallon). So, adding 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons, or ½ teaspoon per 1 gallon, is a good place to start. This can be increased to a maximum of 20g/gallon (5g/liter).
  3. Avoid handling your fish or amphibian as much as possible. This will cause them undue stress, which negatively affects their immune system and can damage their protective slime coats.
    1. FIGHT THE TEMPTATION OF ADDING MEDICATIONS TO THE TANK! This can kill your natural biofiltration (bacteria and other helpful organisms) and actually make your water quality worse! Give us a call immediately to help!

We provide House Calls and In-Office appointments.

You also can schedule wellness tank checkups with us before there is a problem at home. Schedule today!

How to Transport Your Fish or Aquatic Amphibian

Getting your fish into the office can be a stressful thing! Here are some tips you may find useful.

  • Pick an appropriately sized container. For smaller fish (bettas, Glofish, etc), we recommend transporting them in at least 1.5-2 gallons of water. This can be done in a clean plastic bag (tied and placed upright in a cooler, polystyrene or insulated box, or another container with about 30% water to 70% air), plastic container, or aquarium. For larger fish (Koi, Oscar, etc), a 5-gallon bucket with a lid, a clean plastic waste receptacle (with a lid), or a cooler may be more appropriate.
  • We recommend wrapping their transport container in towels/blankets to help keep the temperature as stable as possible and, if possible, providing a double-layered enclosure in the event of an accident and possible cracking of their tank. (We once provided an emergency rescue to one of our axolotl patients after an accident on the highway! The EMTs were impressed with our response time and dedication!)
  • Keep your pet out of direct sunlight or extreme cold.
An orange fish swimming in a tank
Hands in gloves dissecting a sea urchin on a tray with surgical tools

More Tips

  • Many species will be less stressed at lower temperatures (goldfish/axolotls), and a portable ice pack/ice block may be recommended.
  • During colder months, a portable heater, hot water bottle, or hot hands should be carried and available in case of emergency. As a rule of thumb, during transport, it’s far better that your fish be cooler than warmer, as warmer water will carry less oxygen, increase your fish’s metabolism, and stress them excessively.
  • Provide aeration with a battery-powered air stone.
  • Bring extra water, not including the water your pet is transported in, and a separate water sample (at least 1 cup). This is important in the event your fish requires anesthesia and also so that we can do a partial water change for your fish prior to its transport home, using fresh water your fish is accustomed to.
  • Record your most recent water quality parameters prior to and after any recent water changes, and bring them with you on your trip to see us. Taking a photo of your tank, filter, and all the products and food items you feed is also EXTREMELY helpful!
  • Don’t forget to fill out our New Pet -Fish Information Form prior to your visit to help save time.
  • Drive safely!